Summer is a time when we all enjoy splashing around in the ocean and having a blast. That’s why beaches get super crowded during this season. But even though we’re having fun in the water, it’s really important to stay alert. Just one wrong move can lead to serious trouble. We usually know about things like changing tides and rip currents, but we also need to watch out for square waves. They might look beautiful and captivating, but they can be really dangerous in the ocean.
If you’re wondering, square waves, also called cross seas, happen when two or more swells come together to create a square pattern, kind of like a checkerboard. The European Space Agency (ESA) explained back in 2010 that these conditions are pretty common in the ocean when a windsea and a swell, or two swell systems, are happening at the same time. A study from 2004 even found that many ship accidents took place in these crossing sea conditions.
The cross seas can create big waves that reach heights of 10 feet and make interesting shapes in the wind. This can be really tough for people in boats and for swimmers trying to get through the water. Even though it’s not common to see this, if someone does, they should definitely stay away from taking a boat or swimming in those dangerous waters. Instead, it’s a good idea to just chill on the beach and wait for the weather to improve before going out.
Square Waves May Be Attractive, But They Are Also Dangerous
There are several places where you can find square waves. These waves usually appear at land peninsulas where two large bodies of water, like oceans, come together. The swells from different directions can bounce around the peninsula, creating square waves. One famous spot for this is the Isle of Re in France, which is near La Rochelle. It’s a popular place to see these crossed sea waves. Another location where you can observe square waves is Cape Reinga in New Zealand. This area is at the northernmost point of the country, where the Tasman Sea meets the Pacific Ocean.
Square waves are really cool to see! It’s no wonder that these spots attract tons of tourists to the island’s lighthouse, especially on the Isle of Re. But it’s important to watch them from a safe distance. It might seem strange that waves crossing each other at different angles can draw so many visitors, but how many of us have actually seen square waves in action?
Interestingly, you can often find two opposite swells in shallow waters, like those near the Isle of Rhe and Tel Aviv, Israel. Scientists believe that square waves are a result of the Kadomstev-Petviashvili equation in action. This formula usually explains how waves move in a nonlinear way and helps us understand how different weather systems interact with one another.
Sources
- “Square Waves Are a Thing — and If You See Them, Get Out of the Water Immediately.” Travel and Leisure. Stacey Leasca. June 7, 2023.
- “Square Sea Waves: What They Are & Why They Occur.” House of Surf. September 27.
- “Square Waves in Ocean Settings Are Rare But Dangerous.” How Stuff Works. John Perritano. October 23, 2023.