A single garment was enough to ignite global outrage, spark bans, and even lead to arrests.
For decades, the bikini stood at the center of a tug-of-war between personal freedom and societal modesty. It was condemned by religious leaders and outlawed by governments.
Yet, women continued to wear it, challenging conventions with every bold new style.
Beachside Tailors and Early Swimwear
Swimwear in the early 1900s looked nothing like today’s sleek designs. Back then, swimsuits were heavy, full-body wool outfits, intended more for covering up than for fashion.
Strict dress codes were enforced on beaches across the United States. According to Kathleen Morgan Drowne and Patrick Huber’s research on 1920s pop culture, places like Chicago’s Clarendon Beach even hired tailors to alter swimsuits deemed too revealing on the spot.
Similar rules appeared nationwide. In 1915, Coney Island banned swim socks that exposed “dimpled knees,” and in Washington, DC, beach police used tape measures to ensure compliance.
Arrested for a One-Piece?
In the early 20th century, the focus was on covering up. Both men and women were expected to wear neck-to-knee swimsuits, and any visible skin was considered shocking.
Change began with Australian swimmer Annette Kellerman, who in 1907 swapped the traditional pantaloons for a one-piece that bared her arms, legs, and neck.
Nicknamed “the Australian Mermaid” for her swimming prowess, Kellerman spent much of her life challenging social norms and pushing boundaries.
Though there are no official records, Kellerman claimed she was arrested for her “indecent” swimsuit-a scandal at the time that made headlines and inspired others.
Her daring choice caught public attention, and her one-piece designs quickly became popular. She later launched her own swimwear line, with “Annette Kellermans” helping to shape the future of women’s swimwear.
The Roaring Twenties: A Shift in Style
The 1920s saw the flapper look take over not just evening wear but also beach fashion.
A group of Californian women, known for their “skirts be hanged” attitude, set out to create practical swimwear women could actually use.
This sparked a change toward more fitted and functional swimsuits. The movement prioritized comfort and freedom of movement over mere appearance.
Women gradually revealed more skin, although standards were still conservative by today’s measures. The true revolution, however, was yet to come.
The Bikini: A Bold Breakthrough
Everything changed in 1946 with the debut of the bikini. French engineer Louis Réard designed this two-piece suit, which exposed the navel and more skin than ever before.
Just days before the bikini’s launch, the U.S. conducted its first peacetime nuclear test at Bikini Atoll, drawing worldwide attention.
Réard never officially explained the name, but many believe he chose “bikini” to evoke the explosive impact he expected the swimsuit to have. Some say it referenced the allure of the Pacific, while others likened its shock value to that of an atomic bomb.
In the U.S., the bikini was quickly labeled as rebellious and banned from many beaches. Europe was no more accepting: France outlawed bikinis on beaches in 1949, and Germany’s public pools didn’t permit them until the 1970s. Communist groups denounced the bikini as a symbol of moral decline and Western excess.
After Pope Pius XII called the bikini sinful, countries like Belgium, Italy, Portugal, and Spain introduced national bans. In 1952, Australian model Ann Ferguson was ordered off Surfers Paradise beach for wearing a Paula Stafford bikini considered too revealing.
The Story Behind the Famous Photo
A single photograph has come to symbolize the controversy over bikinis on public beaches. In this black-and-white image, a man in uniform stands beside a young woman in a bikini. The photo, which went viral online, is often said to show a police officer ticketing the woman for her swimwear in 1957 Rimini, Italy.
While the photo is authentic, there’s no solid evidence she was fined for her bikini. Some believe it was staged, while others suggest the officer may have been addressing a different issue. Regardless, the image resonated widely.
Gianluca Braschi, head of the State Archives of Rimini, confirmed that Italy had laws dating back to 1932 against “bathing in public view in a state of complete nudity and with indecent swimwear.” These laws technically remained until 2000, though enforcement varied.
So, even if the full story behind the viral photo remains a mystery, it reflects a real tension from an era when wearing a bikini could get you into trouble.
Hollywood’s Influence
The bikini didn’t become truly mainstream until the 1960s, as cultural shifts allowed for more daring swimwear.
Still, not everyone approved. The Hays Code, introduced in 1934, banned the display of the navel in films, even though it allowed two-piece outfits. The National Legion of Decency, a Catholic watchdog group, pressured filmmakers to avoid showing bikinis altogether.
Hollywood stars like Brigitte Bardot, Ursula Andress, and Marilyn Monroe helped redefine ideals of beauty and confidence. These women didn’t just wear bikinis-they embodied them.
The Bikini’s Leading Lady
French actress Brigitte Bardot played a pivotal role in bringing the bikini to global attention.
She didn’t just wear the bikini; she made it a cultural phenomenon, especially in her breakout film “The Girl in the Bikini.” Her relaxed style and charisma challenged traditional portrayals of women on screen.
Though the film emphasized her physical appeal, Bardot was more than a pin-up-she was the first major actress to give the bikini a storyline and make it iconic. The movie’s success propelled her to international fame.
Ursula Andress’s white bikini in “Dr. No” (1962) also became legendary, symbolizing a new era of female empowerment and sex appeal. Her confident, unforgettable entrance established her as the quintessential Bond girl and cemented the bikini’s place in pop culture.
By the 1970s, bikinis were everywhere. With the arrival of string bikinis and thong bottoms, swimwear became even skimpier. Men’s trunks also shrank as the old standards of modesty faded.
Modern Swimwear: Diversity and Body Positivity
Today, swimwear is about personal choice and self-expression. The market offers a wide variety of styles, from daring thongs and string bikinis to classic one-pieces.
The conversation around body types has shifted dramatically. People of all shapes, sizes, and backgrounds now feel free to express themselves at the beach or pool with confidence and comfort.
The era of policing “decent” swimwear is over. Now, it’s all about what makes each individual feel good. America’s evolving attitudes toward modesty-whether embracing the most revealing bikini or a full-coverage suit-reflect a more inclusive and accepting society.
What was once a battle over modesty has become a celebration of freedom, individuality, and diversity. Next time you’re at the beach, remember: the swimsuit is less important than the journey toward self-expression it represents.